Rambler, West Buttress AD 700m
This May long weekend Chris Neate and I headed up to Elk Pass to try the West Buttress of Rambler. After driving from Victoria Saturday morning we got on the trail at 10:30, making it to the gravel bar camp around 1pm. Those who have done the ERT are familiar with the long, winding approach. After 8km or so, one is still only 300m above where they started!
We then made our way up to Elk Pass along the bushy upper trail. A few detours due to missing the trail led to me losing my sunglasses in one of the many struggles with slide alder. After 30 mins of searching I realized there was no chance of finding them, and we continued (Chris having had a nap while I searched). We finally popped out into the upper valley below Rambler, navigating the abundant snow fields and winding eventually into the beautiful tarns of Elk Pass. There we set up camp after an 8 hour approach.
The next day, we woke and had a quick breakfast and were on our way up the West Buttress (AD). Phil Stone’s typical laconic instructions were not super useful at this time of year, as we encountered frozen melt water, abundant snow pack, and aggressive cedars. We could tell some of the route would go in summer, with dry rock, but early season made it much harder. We eventually emerged onto the small shoulder and had some easier - if steeper - snow climbing to make elevation gains that didn’t involve hauling oneself up cliffs by tree branches.
The upper portion of the buttress steepens considerably, with impressive exposure to either side. By impressive I mean “terrifying” as one slip on the snow and one would have a mere tenth of a second to attempt self-arrest before hurtling off into space. By the time we reached the chimney, Chris and I decided protecting the climb was essential. In drier conditions, it might be possible to scramble unprotected. We built an anchor and Chris led up the chimney, followed by backpacks that were hauled behind us. Somehow Chris and I managed to wedge ourselves into the chimney against the thick ice on the other side. Not the most elegant style, but getting up was the goal.
The chimney is followed by a series of exposed traverses and snow slopes, again overlooking airy views to the northwest snow field hundreds of meters below. At this point it was late afternoon, the combination of icy brush and slow protected climbing and rope management draining away the hours.
We finally reached the grey rock 5.6 pitch, which in the guide is quite reasonable because the rock is dry and grippy. Not the case for us, Chris again leading with minimal protection, cleaning the ice and snow off in a search for somewhere to place a crampon point. Neither of us were mixed climbers heretofore, but we learned quickly enough. Somehow Chris tenuously scrambled the last few meters and put me on belay. Pride goeth before a fall, literally in this case, and I happily prussiked my way up the rope to finally gain the summit.
We took in the views, clouds passing through but not obscuring the fine views of the Elk Valley and Golden Hinde traverse. It was then we both realized it was 7pm and far past time to be making our way down. Neither of us had done the Spiral Staircase but were hoping it would go smoothly and quickly. After some searching we found the correct rap station, buried under snow, rigged rappels and descended into the gully. It was at the end of the summit rappel that I realized if there was a rap station it was buried under snow. Fortunately I found a reasonable horn to sling, and we made one final rappel into the gully. Here the snow conditions were in our favour, as we were able to make the long descent unroped using crampons and ice axe. At 8pm at night the gully descents seem endless, particularly when you can only stare at the snow in front of you and make step after step down.
The remainder of the route went as easily as we had hoped (fortunately! Not a good idea to rely on this), plunge-stepping the last slopes back to the Elk River trail and coming to our campsite in darkness, about 15 hours after we had left, far later than either of us had guessed. The hot freeze-dried meal at 10:30pm may have been some of the best tasting food I’ve eaten.
The next day we woke early, packed up, and headed down the endless ERT in reasonable time (enviously thinking of European gondolas on the long flat stretches!). It was a bit humbling being passed on the trail by people returning from camping at the gravel bar, but Chris assured me our rope and ice axes would preserve our credibility.
Overall, an excellent trip, the weather gods in our favour. Definitely an epic route, but probably better in summer than early season.